EATS

The Hootenanny is Back!

by Metro Spirit May 21, 2019

The 10th Annual Papa Joe’s Banjo-B-Que Music Festival, a Kansas City Barbeque Society sanctioned BBQ Cook-Off offering over $40,000 in prizes, is this weekend at Lake Olmstead Park.

The impressive lineup features the Old Crow Medicine Show, Greensky Bluegrass, The Infamous Stringdusters, Leftover Salmon, Deer Tick, Steep Canyon Rangers, The Steeldrivers, Ghost of Paul Revere, Front Country, Pert Near Sandstone, Trout Steak Revival, Hackensaw Boys, The Little Roy & Lizzy Show, Teddy and the Rough Riders, Honeysuckle, Royal Johnson, The Mason Jars, Matt Dahlheimer and Jaycie & Taylor.

A weekend pass is $90, single day passes are $50 for Friday and $65 for Saturday, and kids 15 and under are free with a paid adult.

The new location is sure to be a huge hit with Banjo B Que regulars, as the new setting offers abundant shade and views, set between Lake Olmstead and the Augusta Canal. And yes…the pig races are back again this year!

Papa Joe’s Banjo-B-Que & Music Festival was created ten years ago to honor the legacy Joe Pond, who was a second-generation owner of A.B. Beverage. All proceeds raised at Banjo-B-Que benefit the Joseph R. Pond Memorial Foundation, which donates to charitable organizations through the CSRA Community Foundation.

Banjo-B-Que is considered among the top barbecue festivals in the nation and was listed in USA Today’s top 10 BBQ Festivals in 2016. The weekend is packed with great music, plenty of beer and bbq and plenty to keep everyone entertained.

Head over to banjobque.com for a handy parking map, or simply take UBER or Lyft and avoid the parking altogether!

10th Annual Papa Joe’s Banjo B Que Music Festival

May 24&25, 2019

Lake Olmstead Stadium

Hours: Friday 4p-11p, Saturday 11:30a-11p

FRIDAY Single Day (GA) PASS – $50
SATURDAY Single Day (GA) PASS – $65
FRIDAY Single Day (VIP) PASS – $150
SATURDAY Single Day (VIP) PASS WEEKEND (GA) – $175 WEEKEND (VIP) $275

May 21, 2019

Local Chef Shares Cookbook Love

by Joe White April 19, 2019

I enjoyed spending some time with Todd Schafer over the past few months while he oversaw the renovation of his restaurant, Abel Brown Southern Kitchen in Surrey Center.

One afternoon last month we were in the kitchen as I described a dish I had seen recently. He said “hang on a minute, that reminds me of something,” walked off and quickly returned with a big ‘ol honkin’ cookbook.

He set it down on the make table, squared it up and gazed at the cover a second before cracking it open. He slowly flipped through the well thumbed tome featuring beautifully photographed small plates that could have passed for contemporary art.

He was talking to himself the whole time while looking for the image he wanted to show me. “I love this book” “look at that!” “look at that!” “look at that!” “look at that!” “wow!” “my God!”.

The namesake kitchen in Abel Brown’s Southern Kitchen

I felt like I was having déjà vu all over again.

Last night I came across an article Todd wrote for the Metro Spirit a decade ago, and realized I had been in that exact situation before with him.

How interesting it is that he has a shelf in his office stuffed with thick hardcover cookbooks that he flips through regularly. I’m in a lot of kitchens and that is not something I ever see.

If you enjoy knocking around in the kitchen you’ll enjoy the following piece from 2011, before the flip of Bistro 491 to Abel Brown’s.

Oh, by the way, in a conversation this morning Todd said one to add to the list that he really likes is Happy in the Kitchen by Frenchman Michel Richard.

A used hardcover copy starts at $3.50 on Amazon.

Considering Cookbooks

Written by Todd Schafer

I was 13 when I discovered my love of cookbooks. My mother had quite a collection, and they varied from huge tomes like “The Joy of Cooking” and Julia Childs’ “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” to small, notebook-type cookbooks like “Tea Time at the Masters” and “Betty Crocker.”

“The Joy of Cooking” started me on my way to being a chef. It taught me about exotic ingredients, cuts of meat and all the differing cooking techniques, from braising to roasting. The art of French cooking was a complete mystery to me at that age. I had no experience with French food, my mother being either to busy or too confounded to cook Julia’s offerings, and it inspired me to discover all I could about French cuisine.

It sparked my imagination with words like poele, ris de veau and charcuterie. There was a whole other world of cooking out there, and I wanted to find out everything I could about it. The first cookbook I ever bought, at the age of 15, was by Escoffier, the father of modern French cooking. It was completely over my head, but I slogged through it and, in the years to come, especially while I was at the Culinary Institute of America, it proved an invaluable resource. “On Food and Cooking” by Harold Mcgee was required reading at the CIA, and it gave me the science behind cooking. I still refer to it to this day, even though it is somewhat dry and reads like stereo instructions.

“I still look to them for ideas and inspiration, whether I am cooking dinner at home for three, or at the restaurant during Masters for 2000.”
Todd Schafer

Even after all these years, I am still inspired and excited by cookbooks. I still look to them for ideas and inspiration, whether I am cooking dinner at home for three, or at the restaurant during Masters for 2000. I have written countless menus in the last 20 years or so, and cookbooks help me every time. They provide me with ideas on which way to go with an ingredient or a technique that I previously hadn’t thought of.

My new favorite is “The Flavor Bible” by Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg. It is a veritable encyclopedia of ingredient affinities. Does caviar go with cantaloupe? You bet it does, and you can find that paring in “The Flavor Bible.”

I don’t always go for books by famous chefs, but you can’t go wrong with anything by Thomas Keller or Charlie Trotter. I like to call it cookbook porn, because of its incredibly striking images that make you hungry instantly. These books are not for the novice cook because of the intricate techniques and ingredients used, but they help you imagine what food can become when it is at its highest form.

My favorite all time cookbook author is James Peterson, for his intricately detailed information on sauces, soups, fish and shellfish and his cuisine-specific book, “Glorious French Food.” For all things sweet, I have only one book to recommend: “Desserts” by Pierre Herme. The man is a genius. It is remarkable to me because it is just his “basics” pastry guide, yet everything in it is flawless.

For those of you with a love of cooking, cookbooks will be an invaluable resource of inspiration and guidance. They are the best way to discover your inner chef.

Todd Schafer is the owner and executive chef at Abel Brown’s Southern Kitchen in Surrey. The upscale oyster bar recently re-opened after an extensive remodel.

Abel Brown’s Southern Kitchen

491 Highland Avenue/Surrey Center

Monday- Thursday
5:00pm-10:00pm

Friday & Saturday
5:00pm-11:00pm

706.738.6491

April 19, 2019

Moonshiners Found in Downtown Augusta

by Metro Spirit April 9, 2019

Monday 2nd City Distillery finally opened its doors for a soft opening. The 2:00 get together at the small batch distillery was promptly interrupted by a busted hot water heater, which Master Distillers and co-owners David Long and Cal Bowie aptly pointed out could have happened at any time over the past ten or fifteen years.

Timing is everything, especially in their line of work, and opening during the Masters was the ultimate goal for the team behind 2nd City. Not to be discouraged by a leaking tank, the moonshiners were obviously very happy-and quite relieved-to have the project finally completed.

The second location of small batch distillery Carolina Moon, located on Court House Square
in tiny Edgefield South Carolina, was years in the making. Long and Bowie, along with their cousin, Bill Hatch, obtained a custom-made pot still and first started cooking in 2013. They personally oversee each and every batch from start to finish, something you won’t find with major distillers.

The artisanal distillery is officially open for business today and guests will be able to buy distilled spirits by the glass or bottle, as well as tour the facilities to see how the hooch is made.

2nd City Distillery is located at #4 8th Street, Augusta

April 9, 2019

“It’s either now or never. But it’s a no brainer.”

by Metro Spirit April 2, 2019

The Sno Cap Drive-In, located in North Augusta for over fifty years, and Fatman’s Cafe, located in Augusta for over sixty, have a lot in common. Both have very loyal fans, both serve up great food and nostalgia in equal doses, and both are now owned by the same family. Having purchased the restaurant last month, the Usry’s are already running the burger joint like they’ve been there forever.

Havird Usry in the kitchen at the Sno Cap Drive-In

With a kitchen smaller than yours, Havird seems very comfortable directing traffic during a recent lunch. We were curious about any changes to the menu long time fans of the restaurant can expect.

But first, about those two-way menu boards. Apparently, the cost to get the old system back up and running was a bit cost prohibitive, even with new owners willing to go the extra mile. “I could rewire the old system. I got a quote for that. That’d be about thirty-five grand. So I was like, ‘that’s out,” chuckled owner Havird Usry. Fifty year old technology for sixteen spaces. That is a bit much.

“I got another estimate on just an intercom system, the parts were around eight grand and another two grand to install it, so around ten grand. But it had to have someone with a headset on to operate it. So that was out.”

Havird Usry, always looking for the next opportunity

Squeezing through the cramped kitchen, Havird says they are changing a few things, then stops mid sentence to mention to an employee “You need to get some cold water on those” as he passes a clear container filled with fresh cut french fries, then picks right back up where he left off.

“Lanier’s is grinding my meat for me, the blend I want. We’ll still be doing the steamed buns with the old school steamer, works like a champ. I did go to all beef hotdogs, and we’re grilling them instead of having them floating in water all day. All the desserts are staying the same except for the rootbeer floats. They were using Barq’s and I wanted to go with Red Hare, which is brewed with pure cane sugar. We should have a keg of that in Wednesday.”

But back to the menu boards out front. “I talked to some guys right outside of Chicago who just re-did one (an old drive-in restaurant). He said we just have a toggle switch outside that lights up a light inside and we just have one girl who just flies between cars taking orders all day.

So, Hav decided to just have a server work the covered car park area.

“I have pretty much all of this out here rewired. They’re all wired, the lights are working, and I have the plexi glass to drop in this slot right here. And this switch right here just does a little buzz noise and lights up a number inside so we know which car to run out to with a handheld.”

They won’t order on this, they’ll order on the handheld which just shoots back to the kitchen.

“We just put everything into to go boxes ship it out the door. We’ll see what happens. We’re gonna give it a go.”

The new Sno Cap owners wanted to make sure and mention they are looking for some teenagers who want to work this summer. So if you would like to gain some restaurant experience from one of the most experienced restauranteurs in the CSRA, contact Havird Usry at havirdusry@gmail.com.

April 2, 2019

Headed Southbound

by Metro Spirit March 16, 2019

“You get to see it every day,” says George Claussen, one of the owners of Southbound Smokehouse, as he gestures towards the Savannah River. The view from their newest location at SRP Park in North Augusta overlooks stunning views of the Savannah River. “I was by the river everyday in Augusta but never really saw it because of the levee.”

What is exciting about Southbound’s newest location is the energy and vibrancy of the area, as well as their “next level” surroundings. The restaurant is literally attached to the SRP Park, with expansive, sweeping views of the ballpark and river and new development and walking distance to the growing Riverside Village development.

The original Southbound Smokehouse charm, located on Central Avenue in Augusta, is infused in their newest location. “Downstairs is like you stepped into Southbound 2.0. You still have that wood feel, the pictures of the concerts and the posters and stuff. And you see that [here] and you get a great view of the big Rec Tecs, the river, and the patio beer garden,” Claussen describes.

“Then you jump into this elevator and you come upstairs and it’s like this is some modern new bar feel that’s up here that it’s completely different. When they were doing it I thought it was going to be plain, there’s too much glass. You couldn’t give it the character that I thought. Just the ittle bitty stuff we did do in here went a long way.”

The rectangular room is glass walls on three sides, an enormous horseshoe-shaped bar juts out into most of the space. It’s modern, rustic style boast two completely different vibes depending on the time of day. In the daylight, the gorgeous river and the surrounding development is on full display. It is difficult not to focus one’s attention to the surrounding vista. At night it is completely different, the windows blacken, bringing the focus inward to the bar and the guests.

Just off the elevator, on the second floor, and privately distanced from the upstairs bar is a serving porch overlooking the river. This is the spot with, “lots of seating to chill, eat some food, drink some beer,” says Claussen. With the river views, brightly colored outdoor rugs, and comfortable lounge seating, there is an unmistakable coastal hotel rooftop vibe. “Half of my family is originally from Charleston, on grandmother’s side” says Claussen in reference to the unmistakable Charleston feel upstairs. “And I know we are nothing like Charleston, but, at the same time, it really made me realize something.”

The food, well, the food is the real star. Voted Metro’s Best BBQ each year since opening by readers of the Metro Spirit, the kitchen is a testament to the focus on obtaining the perfect balance of smoke and the natural flavors of the top quality meat. Almost all the beef, chicken and pork they serve, in fact, spends quality time in their massive smoker in the kitchen before making their way to tables in the form of appetizers, nachos, quesadillas, tacos, burritos, sliders and platters. Their beloved barbecue sauces are named after music they love.

The bar beverages are tasty, cold, and simple. “We have canned beer, almost like it’s out of a cooler, and we want it to feel like you’re at a cookout,” Brittingham said. “Nothing too crazy, nothing too fancy or crafty.”

Oh, and don’t worry about parking. Claussen explains, “We’ve had valet service off the rip. They are contracted in and they just park everybody’s car. They just park everybody for a tip. We pay them.”

Opening a new venue can be intimidating, especially when the build out takes a little longer than anticipated. Owners once anxious prior to opening, are now receiving some very promising feedback from their neighbors. “A lot of them came up and talked to us in the first couple of days we were open. A lot of it was ‘Thank god y’all are here. We’ll be here everyday. We’ve been waiting for you to open.’ You finally get reassured, especially by people in the neighborhood that they’re gonna be here all the time,’ says Claussen.

Although the newer Southbound feels a bit more upscale, it’s sentiment is unchanged. “It’s an easy atmosphere,” says co-owner Brian Brittingham. “People are coming in here with shorts and flip flops and whatever. We’re a place for everybody and, if you’re jogging down the greenway and want to sit out on the patio and grab a beer and some water afterwards, that’s great. Anyone is welcome.”

Adds Claussen, “This new location has its own little infrastructure and I think the same thing with Southbound One. The original location has matured into its own place with its own vibe. We were thinking that opening weekend was going to pull business away from Central, but we ran out of pork at Southbound One and that hasn’t happened in over a year. For it to be that slammed over there and here, we’re just like, ‘finally, we’ve been waiting for this’.”

March 16, 2019

Frog & the Hen

by Metro Spirit March 3, 2019

Columbia County has a new restaurant concept from the Frog Hollow Hospitality Group. The Frog & the Hen opened quietly last Friday on Flowing Wells Road. Owner Sean Wight’s latest concept is actually in the same strip as Farmhaus Burgers, Wight’s farm to table hamburger restaurant that opened in Columbia County in 2016.

The Frog & the Hen is what Wight calls “elevated comfort food” with chicken being the star of the show – cage and hormone free, single-sourced all natural diet chickens.

“We wanted to create something for busy families on the go-an alternative to normal take out food. Quality fresh items-real potatoes, real butter, real fresh green beans that have been blanched, no preservatives, with everything being homemade from scratch.”

The single-sourced birds are chilled in a salt and herb brine for six hours, then slow roasted. The process enhances the juicy flavor and the unique ovens are designed to keep the moisture consistent.

In addition to chicken, the menu features healthy homemade sides with no additives or preservatives, just good quality ingredients. Mashed potatoes with butter, salt and heavy cream, seasonal veggies like roasted butternut squash with sorghum glaze and a delicious version of Frog Hollow’s famous mac and cheese are just a few of the menu side items.

The lunch menu spotlights homemade chicken pot pies, artisan sandwiches such as roasted Joyce Farms Chicken, heirloom roasted pork and Border Springs Farms’ leg of lamb, as well as creative salads and daily Blue Plate Specials.

Saturday’s 10am-3pm brunch is sure to be busy this spring. Chicken and waffles, chicken biscuits, a breakfast hash and a staff favorite from Frog Hollow, big fat gooey cinnamon rolls with candied bacon. “We’ll have several versions of house-made bloody mary’s, kicked up mimosas with fruit puree and Grand Marnier infused fruit puree ice,” Wight shared.

In addition to the restaurant, the Frog & the Hen has a market well-stocked with dishes off of the menu, chilled and ready to pop in the oven at home. There are also pantry staples such as jams, jellies, honey, coffee, wines and craft beers.

“If you’re familiar with Sara’s Fresh Market over in South Carolina, off Highway 25, we carry some of their offerings such as their jams, which are simple crushed fruit with
pure cane sugar instead of corn syrup” stated Wight emphasizing the all-natural, homemade Frog and the Hen fare.

The well curated selections offered in the market are all created with much care and thought. “For example, Anson Mills provides fresh, native, stone-ground organic ingredients,” Wight describes the grits they locally-source. “It’s owned by Glenn Roberts out of Columbia and he has basically dedicated his life to bringing back older varieties of grains. The cold-mill all ingredients to order, immediately chill vac-pac them and ship them the same day. So, everything is kept cold and it actually takes like corn. They don’t dry it out and you can really taste the difference.”

The Frog & the Hen combines two of Wight’s passions, farming and cooking. Wight has been using farm-to-table ingredients from local providers since he was the chef at the Old Edgefield Grill prior to opening Frog Hollow in downtown Augusta about ten years ago.

When not in town working on his businesses, he can most likely be found on a tractor working his farm in South Carolina.

“I was at Edgefield Grill for 10 years and I thought it was really cool, because I just kind of taught myself how to do everything,” Wight said. “I had a lot of experience by then, but not so much cooking as I did front of the house. But if you are good waiter
or good at the front of the house, period, you know exactly how every dish is made. So, if you have some cooking ability, you can recreate a lot of stuff that you have served.”

In addition to great food, customer service is very important in all of his restaurants. At 21 years old, Wight worked for Disney when he lived in Florida. He quickly discovered that the company’s philosophy regarding guest services had a tremendous impact on him. Wight said Disney’s attitude really opened his eyes to the importance of treating guests with the utmost respect and providing them with outstanding service.

When Wight moved back to the Augusta area, he brought that philosophy of quality service with him. “Now, at our restaurants, I can honestly say that our food is great, but our service is equally great. And I think that is one of the things that really set us apart, is our emphasis on the guest experience.”

The Frog & the Hen will be offering family style dinners to go in a few weeks once the kitchen staff has a few week under its belt. Customers will be able to order on-line (or call in) and picked up via drive up window. In addition to the meal, you can take away a bottle of wine or craft beer that will compliment the meal at the drive up window.

“We’re featuring local and regional craft beers and have a number of wines available” says Wight. I think that is one of the things that really sets us apart, is our emphasis on the guest experience.”

“Don’t take it for granted. You have to earn it every day,’” Wight said. “Because it is truly a blessing to have people want to come here and spend their evening with us. I will never take that for granted.”

Frog & the Hen Market & Eatery

466 Flowing Wells Rd

(706) 755-2767

Tuesday-Friday 11:00AM – 9:30 PM

Saturdays 10:00AM – 9:30 PM

March 3, 2019

Fatz Says Farewell

by The Insider February 21, 2019

FATZ Cafe, open on Belair Road since 2005, has fallen victim to their parent company’s bankruptcy filing in November of 2018, closing its doors Tuesday.

Cafe Enterprises, Inc., listed 39 locations spread across the southeast in the filing.

The 1.9 acre lot was developed in 2004.

It will be interesting to see if a locally owned restaurant operator will take over the location or another chain quickly gobbles it up.

In the meantime, we found a copy cat recipe for their amazing deep fried poppy seed rolls HERE.

February 21, 2019

Diablo’s On Washington Road Opening

by Metro Spirit February 11, 2019

The area’s sixth Diablo’s Southwest Grill will be opening within the next two weeks.

Located in the former Jiffy Lube on Washington Road (next to Chick Fil A) the restaurant will employ between 25-30 people and be open 7 days a week.

According to Brad Wall, one of three local owners of the homegrown chain, “We finally got the parking lot in. Once everything dries out tomorrow-Wednesday, they’ll stripe everything, so we’ll be getting a C.O. for that out there and then we’ll start making some tacos!”

Our tentative goal is to have our friends and family soft opening in the middle of next week, and be open by next weekend.
Brad Wall

The newest location offers indoor and patio dining. There is also a large roll-up glass garage door which allows the outside in the dining area weather permitting.

Diablo’s Southwest Grill

Opening Soon.

3201 Washington Road

February 11, 2019

From Fry Daddy to Mack Daddy

by Metro Spirit February 3, 2019

Closing your bustling restaurant for over a month is a pretty big decision for a small business owner. Todd Schaefer, owner of Abel Brown Southern Kitchen, can pinpoint the moment he realized he may be facing such a reality, “When I lost the fryer like a year and a half ago.”

Before the renovation. Not much open space.

At the time, Schaefer was updating his insurance policy and discovered the code had changed on hood vents, effectively rendering his fryer fried. “We had it inspected and they gave us a red tag and said we couldn’t use it. Even though it wasn’t such a huge part of everything, it was a key part. So the thing had to be six inches in (under the vent) but it was like-right here” Schaefer said, gesturing roughly six inches.

One of two new hood vents.

Joy.

“So I bought a cheap table top fryer that was a piece of junk. We were only frying like a couple of things-okra-we were frying all this stuff to order, you know, everything, vegetables, garnishes and everything. It was really frustrating.”

Schafer preparing Anson Mills Johnny Cake with pimento cheese, andouille & chives

“So that really was the impetus.”

The hardest part? “People are upset that we’re closed because they love coming here. We’re just trying to make it better for everyone.”

The kitchen has served Schaefer well over the past twenty years. Originally a French country restaurant Bistro 491, then fifteen years later, the restaurateur flipped the concept to a casual oyster bar, Abel Brown Southern Kitchen.

The Bistro 491’s newly poured bar in 2001.

One of the mental hurdles Schafer had at the time was the poured concrete bar. He was convinced he couldn’t flip concepts and retain the rebar reinforced behemoth he had built in a remodel and expansion in 2001. Moving the fryer turned out to be a lot easier than jack-hammering the bar out.

Turning this utility hallway into workable space with new walls, floor and ceiling.

As remodels go, this one has turned out to be more extensive than originally planned.

Schaefer said the biggest difference between Bistro and Abel, in the kitchen at least, is functionality. “When it went from a French bistro to an oyster house. No, there wasn’t as much work in the kitchen necessarily from a production standpoint, it just became far busier.”

Abel Brown’s handcrafted walnut bar during renovation.

“Our best year I think was 2006 or 2007. We did a good bit of business for this little place (Bistro 491). This year on our projections that we have, if we maintain our same numbers, we should triple that.

So we’re turning and burning, people are moving.”

The utility hallway leads to the oyster bar.

In fact, Abel Brown was voted one of the top 50 southern restaurants in the United States in 2018. “I think we just made the restaurant more casual, more accessible, and our clientele is younger and more adventurous, willing to try anything.”

The Private Dining Room with new flooring.

“With Abel Brown we made it real casual but kept really good service. We spend so much time cultivating our customers, keeping notes on everything and really focusing on service.

Facing the front of Main Dining Room.

We provide good food in a good environment. Now we’re a lot more progressive as far as what we’re serving. We use really good products, and as long as we cook it right people come back for the service.”

Schafer used to drive to Augusta Regional Airport to pick up his fish.

“We’ve grown 30 to 40 percent every year since 2014 in sales. With the former configuration of the kitchen area, we had to move tables every day. We’ve had to move stuff around every single day. Get this out of the way, get that out of the way, we had the whole back area stacked full of stuff.

Sous Chef on the sander

Schafer was farm to table before it was a thing.

Now hallways have been opened up and walls moved, revealing a large space with great flow. ” The staff, once accustomed to working in hallways and corners, will now have room to work.

Gesturing around at once was a service hallway, Schaefer says “Once this area is roughed in, we’ll have a new ceiling, new walls, new lighting.

Gone are the long ago abandoned utilities and in their place stainless steel shelving and a working service area. “They can polish all the glasses here now. We’ve had a lot of breakage because we were so crushed for space. So we kind of focused on having a place for everything.

Schafer, a notorious napper, in 2001.

The redesign has yielded a kitchen twice as large, with 75% more open floor space. Two hood vents instead of one. The former Whole Foods cooler will now reside just outside the restaurant, as opposed to squatting in the corner of the kitchen.

Renovating the kitchen and back of house isn’t something customers will necessarily see, but the differences will be felt. “Adding equipment, like adding that fryer, with three bays instead of just one, will speed up things immensely.

“So as opposed to waiting on the chicken wings to be done so I can fry the oysters, I can do them at the same time you know, speed that aspect up.”

We’re expanding our menu and we’ll be able to serve more food in less time.

Abel Brown Southern Kitchen expects to reopen after Valentine’s Day.

www.abelbrownaugusta.com/

706.738.6491

491 Highland Avenue

Surrey Center

Augusta GA

February 3, 2019

Owning a Restaurant 22 Years? Impressive.

by Metro Spirit February 1, 2019

Last Sunday marked the French Market Grille West’s twenty second anniversary. Owner/Chef/Chief Bottle Washer Jim Beck was in a reflective mood as he busied himself in the kitchen, doing what he oftentimes does-interacting with a steady stream of customers, friends, vendors and employees. Listening, offering advice and laughing.

When the subject veered into a happy, life-work balance-enjoying what you do, Beck was adamant. “You gotta do what makes you happy. Whatever you do, you GOT to love it.”

The bulletin board in the kitchen lets you know political correctness is frowned upon.

“Last Sunday was twenty two years of owning this place.” He continued, “I work 80 hours a week, and I can’t wait to get here in the morning. I’ve never woken up one time and said ‘shit, I have to go to the restaurant’. This is what I love to do. I love being here.”

Never far from the grill

Apparently, so do his legions of fans who fill his restaurant every day. Even more importantly, his staff love being there.

“There’s eight of us who have been here the whole time.” Beck says as he slowly pivoted around, counting them off on his fingers one by one.

“Me, Joy, Brian Grubbs, Jeff, Tutu, Jeff, Stephanie, Doris, and Lopez.”

Wow.

Roasting employees. It’s what’s for dinner.

If you’ve ever encountered Jim, you know he’s a different sort of restaurant owner. With Jim you get the unfiltered opinion of a very unfiltered man, one who carries himself more like the Savannah River Site pipe fitter he was before leaping full-time into the restaurant business. (He still keeps his union card current just in case)

Anna Bell, a hostess and senior at Greenbrier High School, took 17 minutes to do this sketch of dishwasher Mike Smith, a 20 year employee.

His father instilled a work ethic and world view that runs thick through all the Beck siblings. Brother John owns Sheehan’s and Beck’s, both on the Hill in Augusta, and sister Joy is always floating around, helping wherever she’s needed. Whether you agree or disagree with his point of view, you walk away admiring the man for his sense of conviction. Loyalty runs deep with Jim, and with his employees it runs both ways.

“I feed my staff every day. I tell them, if you come in here and you’re hungry, just tell me you’re hungry and I’ll feed your ass. Don’t sneak over in the corner and munch on bread. Especially if it’s a slow day and they don’t make a bunch of money. Neither does the restaurant, but what is a piece of chicken, a hamburger or some shrimp?”

Speak to Jim any length of time and you begin to see the reason behind his longevity in an industry where employee churn is rampant.

Better known as Buff. Graduated from Carolina with a degree in Hotel and Restaurant Management. He worked at Disney World for a time and will bust out a character’s goofy dance if requested.

“When you wake up in the morning, make the right decision. And every decision after that, make the right decision. It’s easy. Just always do the right thing.”

The French Market Grille West is located at 368 Fury’s Ferry Road in Martinez.

706.855.5111

frenchmarketwest.com

Hours are Monday-Saturday 11:00AM – Until

February 1, 2019